Viñales, tobacco and coffee
December 16, 2022
After a very bumpy two hours colectivo journey from La Havana to Viñales shared with another couple, we arrived at another casa particular. We were welcomed by our new host, who also offered a few excursion opportunities. We decided to opt for a five hours hike to experience the beautiful landscape of palm trees, fruit trees, tobacco and coffee plantations.
Our wonderful guide, Elliott, was clearly well known to the land owners and we were able to speak with them and find out more about their way of life. We were amazed to see that there is no modern equipment to plough the land and that they use either horses or buffaloes to do so. In addition to planting and harvesting everything by hand, they use ancient methods of farming. There is no doubt that farming in Cuba is one of the most challenging jobs in the world.
The hike took us to a tobacco farm where the process of making the famous Cuban cigars was explained to us. We were privileged to visit some of them in their home and see how they live. Most of them live in poverty. We received confirmation that the government takes ninety percent of the produce of their farms, leaving only ten percent to be sold locally to make a living. There is an incredible sense of pride among the Cuban people and we could see that they welcomed the interest in how they live.
The hike continued on to a coffee plantation, where we were taught the process of growing, harvesting, drying and roasting the coffee bean. At the end of our visit, we were given the opportunity to taste some of the best coffee in the world. Once again, we were stunned by the farmer’s use of ancient tools and processes to accomplish this task.
As well as visiting the farmers and learning about their way of life, we also crossed many plots along the road, where Cuban families had built beautiful casa particulares to benefit from the tourism.
Since tourism is growing rapidly, some of the farmers in the region have switched trades and are now offering horseback riding tours and guide services in order to survive. The main street of Viñales is lined with small colourful bungalows ready to welcome visitors from all over the world.
There are plenty of all-inclusive resorts on the island. However, there is much more to Cuba than five star hotels, beaches and luxury services. Cuba is about experiencing nature, meeting wonderful people, dancing salsa and drinking rum. It is a unique experience that you will never forget.
