Santiago de Cuba, a vibrant city
January 3, 2023
Stepping foot in Santiago de Cuba after our first long-distance bus journey across the island is a very different experience. Despite the unforeseen 90-minutes delay, the moment we arrive, the weariness dissipates, replaced by a sense of excitement and anticipation. The tiredness from the journey cannot overshadow the thrill of exploring this vibrant city.
As we step off the bus, we are greeted by a cacophony of voices shouting “taxi!” from beyond the gates. It is a slightly overwhelming scene, and there do not seem to be any official ways to secure a cab. However, fear not, approach someone and inquire about the fare for a ride to the casa you have booked. The prices are quoted in Pesos, the preferred currency in the east of the island, though they magically double if you ask for the price in Euros… a testament to the intriguing local customs and quirks we encounter throughout our Cuban journey.
Our chosen destination, Casa Pavo Real, comes highly recommended by Lonely Planet. Having made a direct arrangement with the owner, Juan Marti, we find ourselves welcomed into his breathtakingly beautiful colonial house. Stretching over three floors, although all the habitable spaces are located on the ground floor, the casa enchants with its tainted-glass windows, an internal patio adorned with a lush a garden and a small fountain. A spiral stair case leads to a terrace that reveals a panoramic view of Santiago de Cuba. After settling into our conformable abode, we head out for dinner following Juan’s restaurant recommendation.
Santiago de Cuba was once a thriving, bustling city. Motorcyclists cross its narrow, one-way, hilly roads and the riders drive as if they were alone on the street. Instead of slowing down at intersections with limited visibility -forget mirrors like we have in Europe- they rely on blaring their horn. Crossing the bustling streets on foot can be a bit daunting as the riders gather speed to conquer the next hill.
On our second day, we decide to follow the Lonely Planet recommended walk across the city. Starting at Tívoli and winding its way through the historical center via Padre Pico’s picturesque escaleras and the iconic balcón de Velasquez, the route takes us through the park Céspedes and leads us to the vibrant and colourful Calle José A. Saco. Along the way, we pause to indulge in some churros, a local treat that, while not quite reaching the heights of its Mexican counterparts, certainly holds its own in Cuban culinary delights.
With the new year fast approaching, Santiago de Cuba bursts with anticipation and festivity. Workers are busy erecting stands around the park of Céspedes in anticipation of the forthcoming celebrations. After a modest pasta dinner, we go back to the casa for a tranquil evening of reading. After further discussions with our host and considering the limited transportation and provisions in this region, we make the decision adjust our itinerary. We bid farewell to the trip to Holguin setting our sights on Santa Clara, our next destination.
Despite the closures on New Year’s Day, we still decide to leisurely stroll through the streets of Santiago de Cuba. However, our first stop is the Viazul office where we hope to confirm our bus trip to Santa Clara as we were unable to pay for the tickets online. Unfortunately, due to a lack of connection, they are unable to provide the confirmation we seek. Instead, they hand us a paper note and ask us to return at 9pm. For the rest of the day, we meander through the city once more, finding ourselves drawn back to the lively Calle José A. Saco. On the way back we pause for a refreshing drink, followed by a light dinner at one of the few open restaurants. We then make our way to the bus station, ready to embark on the 10-and-a-half-hour bus journey to Santa Clara. Recalling our initial travel experience from Camagüey, we brace ourselves, hoping for a smoother ride this time around.
Santiago de Cuba is a city of vibrant contrasts, where the excitement of exploration meets the challenges of navigating its bustling streets. From the captivating colonial architecture to the lively rhythms of daily life, this city leaves an indelible mark on the adventurous traveller.
