Santa Clara, a city steeped in history by Che Guevara

Santa Clara, a city steeped in history by Che Guevara

January 8, 2023

Travelling through Cuba is an adventure filled with unexpected twists and turns. Our journey from Santiago de Cuba to Santa Clara, a city steeped in history by Che Guevara, proved to be the most challenging experience to date. Little did we know that it would test our resilience. Arriving at the Viazul office in Santiago de Cuba, we were met with the frustrating reality of a lack of internet connection again. Despite having confirmed our reservation, we were not allocated official seats. Determined to continue our journey, we negotiated with the chef driver and paid the fare, securing a spot on the bus. Taking our seats at the back, which are usually reserved for drivers’ rest, we tried to relax.

Despite a very limited visibility, the driver goes fast. It is a bumpy and uncomfortable ride. With three drivers taking turns, the journey became more eventful than we had anticipated. Near Las Tunas, one of the scheduled stops, a sudden impact on the side of the road forced an unplanned halt. We waited patiently as the drivers resolved the issue, but this unexpected delay break down added nearly an hour of travel time.

Finally, at almost 11am we arrived in Santa Clara, tired and famished. A ride from the bus terminal brought us to our chosen casa Hostel Florida Terrace, where we were warmly welcomed by our host. After settling into our quarters and a refreshing shower, we were very kindly offered a very welcomed breakfast, which we devoured with ravenous appetites. 

January 2nd, a bank holiday, limited the availibility of open establishment in Santa Clara. Nevertheless, we embark on a walk around the centre to familiarise ourselves with our surroundings. In the evening, our host recommended a nearby restaurant, allowing us to savour a simple meal before returning to the comfort of our casa. As fatigue settled in, we probably had the best sleep since arriving in Cuba, thanks to the comfortable beds and the serene atmosphere. 

The following day, January 3rd, we ventured out for further exploration. Although the museums were closed too due to yet another bank holiday, we discovered the various monuments erected in the honour of the revolutionary, Che Guevara. Santa Clara holds a special place in history, being the site where Che Guevara won several battles against the Bautista army. It is here that the revolutionaries achieved significant victories, leading to the downfall of the Bautista regime. Che Guevara was laid to rest in a mausoleum on the outskirts of the historical centre. 

On January 4th we have planned to extend our tourist visa as it was due to expires at the end of the week. Following the guide book instructions we had to the bank to pay for stamps before heading to the immigration office. However, our request was met with confusion as the bank employees were unfamiliar with the process and expected an account number for the payment. We tried unsuccessfully to contact the immigration office with the numbers found online. Frustrated, we decided to try our luck directly at the immigration office. 

Finally reaching the office block, we were instructed to ask for a lady named Jacqueline. After a lengthy wait we mustered the courage to remind her of our presence and quickly exposed our situation. Surprisingly, we learned that the rules had recently changed, extending the validity of tourist cards from 30 to 90 days. We did some more research to find out that the rule was introduced mid November 2022 to attract more tourists. However, none of the websites or blogs I had reviewed prior to our trip to Cuba mentioned this. 

Eager to make the most of our time in Cuba, we organised a trip to Remedios and Cayo Santa Maria on January 5th. Our journey began with a cab ride from the casa, taking us to Remedios, where we marvelled at the magnificent Parroquia de San Juan Bautista de Remedios, one of Cuba’s oldest ecclesiastical structures, built in 1550. Strolling through the charming village square, we absorbed the beauty and history that surrounded us before continuing our excursion towards Cayo Santa Maria.

However, our plans hit an unexpected roadblock when we reached the toll point to cross the 48km road, El Pedraplén, to the island. Their system at the checkpoint was down, preventing us from obtaining day passes and denying us entry. Disappointed, we made our way back to Santa Clara without having set foot on the island. Lesson learned: ensure proper arrangements for entry before planning transportation to Cayo Santa Maria, especially for day trips. A hotel booking on the island automatically grants passage, while day visitors are required to pay a fee of USD 20 and register their passports.

The following day allowed us to slow down the pace and leisurely explore Santa Clara. We meandered through the city, relishing in its unique charm, and eventually found ourselves enjoying a coffee in a local café. Fortunately, fellow guests at our casa decided to spend a few days in Cayo Santa Maria. We agree to join them guaranteeing us passage through the toll gate. In the morning, with reassurance that the system was operational, we embarked on our journey, cautiously navigating the toll gate with the help of our driver’s advice. By keeping silent and coordinating our stories, we successfully passed through without incident or additional fees. 

After passing the toll gate, we drive The Pedraplén is incredible. It is not a bridge, but a causeway built with limestones as well as many bridges. You have the feeling that you are on a floating road. As you get to Cayo Santa Maria, you are driven to your hotel of choice. Those hotels are all-inclusive hotels. 

To fully explore the island, we hopped on a double-decker tour bus, paying a nominal fee of $5 per person. For the next two hours, we journeyed through the enchanting landscapes of Cayo Santa Maria, stopping at Pueblo La Estrella. This small village presented an array of handicrafts, limited entertainment, and a handful of restaurants. While some establishments were closed, likely affected by the pandemic, the area was designed to cater to tourists, with beach access primarily granted to resort guests. Nevertheless, we manages to have a peek at the beach by crossing through one of the Melia resorts. 

Following a relatively pricey lunch, totaling $14 on the island, we made our way back to the taxi pick-up stand. A quick call to request our driver, who promptly arrived to transport us back to Santa Clara for one more night at our casa. 

Embarking on a journey through Cuba holds the promise of adventure, but it also requires flexibility and resilience. As our Cuban adventure drew to a close, we decided to treat ourselves to a week of luxury in the coastal paradise of Varadero. While we felt a tinge of guilt for indulging in opulence, we really needed the luxury of a warm and safe shower as well as more comfortable beds.